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I’d been skirting the edges of Florida’s %26ldquo;Big Bend%26rdquo; for years, figuring the backwater villages scattered along the geographic armpit of the Panhandle were more than retro enough for my taste. Then I discovered there was a whole new world that existed, one more natural and wild than I ever imagined. This world is given over to scores of offshore islands protected inside several water-slogged wildlife refuges, a liquid place decidedly apart from anything safe and known. I

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